Saturday, 10 July 2010


Dior Joaillerie.

There is something about jewellery which has an effect on me like nothing else, unlike clothes or shoes or bags, jewellery produces a mesmeric and truly fascinating influence which remains autonomous to any other item within fashion. Collections, trends and accessories are constantly being re-made, re-interpreted and re-invented to produce fashion concepts which are pushing the boundaries which as consequence, are constantly changing. The security a stunning piece of jewellery can provide enables a focus point to be established which remains modern and unqiue yet offers a distinct reliability which individuals within the world of fashion can attain, irrespective of the continual change time brings.
Dior dissolves time and eliminates trends with the inspiring designs from Victoire de Castellane, she mixes the formula of jewellery construction with the artisan vision required in couture to develop jewellery as something unique and limitless. The one-of-a-kind items in the impeccable 'Coffret de Victoire' collection, Castellane gives a phenomenal spectacle of the classically beautiful interlaced with a lavish flair necessary to cultivate an artisan's creation. One ring cloaked in 18K white gold contained a prodigious purple sapphire in the centre, delicately emblazoned by coiling, rippling blends of flaming rubellite woven within gleaming streaks of icy Paraiba tourmalines, warmed against fiery, golden mandarin garnets. All of which were intricately twined and threaded to convey a gleaming circuitous course, rippling like the waters of the ocean-bed, diamonds were scattered sparingly to resemble bubbles. Striking plumes of vibrancy were encircled together to show the encasement of a miniature fish. This radiated a kaleidoscopic contortion of a stunning hues, highlighted defiantley by a surplus of lustruous sapphires in pink, purple and yellow as well as, of course, diamonds.
The collection continued to bring about the importance of opulence and true beauty, in a day where this idea which should flourish, can sometimes be stunted. Castellane proves otherwise. Another ring set in 18K yellow gold is the main component supporting a glowing, opalescent, mother of pearl skull with two, blushing rose spinels as eyes, the pearl modestly reflects light to give floating, smooth dimensions to what some may consider a ghastly object. This almost ethereal ring is adorned with a golden bejeweled crown consisting of dazzling virescent tsavorite garnets which is opposed by three gleaming streaks of spinels which are crowned above a row of sharp, yet deep, sumptuous sapphires. There are a series of skull rings which are a playful mix between the elaborate, concise and perfect embellishments which are mixed with the youthful and humourous touches which make these rings a luxuriant potion of the opulent and the eccentric .
A skull pendant in particular which plays with these two themes accordingly is an 18K yellow gold piece which has an exotic coral skull and embedded within the cavities are glistening diamonds within the eyes and teeth. This pendant brings the rich jewels and blends it with a tribal almost wild concept, 'he' seems as though he ought to be some tribal leader or warrior within the tropics. The headdress is extremely elaborate and is fruitfully garnished with an exotic concoction of barbed, sparkling aquamarines which perfectly contrast the sharp coral. Acid toned peridots explode at alternating angles with a layered assortment of dark violet iolites again enhancing the layered, serrated shape to the diadem. This character is made more powerful by the trio of dark coral skulls each imposing upon differing angles with glinting diamonds within the eye-sockets. The tribal-esque, quixotic charm is indicated with the trickling pink tourmalines which dangle from the skull, these hanging jewels are separated with the subtle use of diamonds to add another detailed dimension to this playful piece.
The house of Dior also looks at the beauty of rings without adding youthul, humourous accents like the 'Incroyables & Merveilleuses' which focusses on subtle detail to offer designs which are feminine, detailed and no less decadent. The 'Cerise' ring set in 18K white gold supports a collosal amethyst, so finely cut that the stone appears so deep and cannot help but intoxicate eyes into another enchanting design. Flaming citrine jewels coil around the corners of the stone, illuminating the tremendous splendour and intricacy of the ring. Accompanied by large, luscious, spherical droplets of peridots and tsavorite garnets, the glinting hues of acidic-green contrasting against stunning deep viridescent makes the ring seem as though it had flourished within the depths of an Eden, richly-hued like a tropical rainforest. Crystalline clear diamonds weave within the mysterious collection of gems to make the ring something far more ornamental. Following a similar formula the collection of rings burst into a vivid assortment of colour all of which are wrapped and delicately tangled between eachother to lay in a labyrinthe of radiant jewels and appear like vibrant snakes amid a jewelled treasure. Rings named 'Vendanges', 'Voluptuesuse' and 'Gracieuse' are some of my favourites.
Jewellery like this delivers unfathomable detail and no compromise on grandeur which is imperative when few pieces in fashion can both withstand time and remain relevant and stunning. Victoire de Castellane provides links within fashion which highlight the need for designs which are outrageously glamourous and do not need to be bought, but need to be recognized. Recognized as an eternal star in the ever evolving galaxy of fashion.

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