Wednesday, 15 September 2010


Spring/Summer has come to bloom beneath the cold, frost and stifling winter months. To be honest, very little has caught my eye yet, but one in particular blushed beneath bareness. Rodarte. A familiar favourite of mine, and S/S delivered a collection more subtle than previous seasons, but by no means less absorbing.

Rodarte articulated a collection which was mature, enticing, detailed and perfectly constructed. Looks were paired with wearability and innovation; that being what I probably admired most. Laura and Kate Mulleavy acquired an atmospheric collection, appealing to their child-hood surroundings enveloped designs which were tonal, spirited and laced with subtle character. Billowing silk trousers were balanced with subtle wooden prints with mahogany tones which were delicately draped to form an unconventional silhouette for the contemporary woman. Twisted, draped, scrunched and coiled techniques meandered down the frame in skirts and trousers, whilst remaining sensual as delicately sheer tops displayed sliced appliqué as 3 dimensional patterns which curved intimately to the body like a natural growing cortex.

Jourdan Dunn made a return, in a piece which illustrated a seventies natural aesthetic. Leather was embossed with a modern paisley print with cascading curves and coiling woven details the print was contrasted with a structured fit and cut. Bronzed in burnished wooden tones, this was one of many archetypal pieces to come. Metallics delivered strong impact and infused necessary polished, lustrous pieces. A-line skirts were slanted and slashed to reveal a slice of skin, one in particular was carved in the woven paisley viewed before but was shown in a melodramatic style as luminescent gold drenched the skirt to employ a view of radiant engravings.

Wooden tones were refreshed into a sparkling condition of romance in the oriental prints that flushed upon the catwalk. These ornamental gowns flowered with bold sapphire, rich indigo, blossoming cobalt and pearled tones of ivory and white which reflected the delicacy of a Ming vase. Sheer cuts and light chiffon whirled as structure flourished up the hips to the appliqué tops which were manifested in bold navy and white to enhance the delicate harmony and composition of the oriental prints. These prints took a more structured route with sharp shoulders and wrapped waists which revealed ebony material which was sliced high at the leg to reveal true femininity. Within the bustling beauty of Rodarte the show was laced with wearable items such as pale green blouses, box-pleated dove-grey skirts, cropped wooden printed jackets, high-waisted seamed seventies trousers and large, bold checked tops showed this perfectly.
Gladiator dresses were whip stitched with minute squares of white leather which developed into a structural dress which attained a feminine twist with layered nude geisha-esque sleeves which unfurled from the waist and over the shoulders. A Grecian dress utilized layered effects, sleeves were emblazoned with embroidered matt gold sequins and a skirt in rich metallic silk blew out at the waist and underneath escaped a glowing gold, dazzling skirt which lusciously flowed down the legs.

A flamboyant mix of cultures, shapes, materials and styles...could I ask for more?

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