Friday, 1 October 2010


A sparkling diversion from my personal taste, Dries Van Noten's S/S has entranced a sense of harmony and a beautiful haze for spring which seems too far to even wonder; but Dries Van Noten makes it appear effortless. More than anything, what I love about Van Noten is their conjunction of the masculine/feminine aesthetic. Slouchy oversized blazers were teamed with casual cotton shirts and silk skirts with simple and subtle floral prints like Chinese paintings which shimmered like rippling water-colours. Dual toned jackets dissolved into degrading hues of peach, rose and diluted lilacs in boxy cuts. Observing the works of Jef Verheyen to emulate his transitory style with a sensual undertone, Van Noten refreshed the concept of light. From there serenity flowed with blissful ease, with slim silk tops and wide trousers to match refined this sophisticated look. Soothing allure revitalized delicacy with neutrals and deep blossom shades on collared gowns again enhanced the tempered florals which faded with haunting appeal.

With neat and precise iridescent accessories in the form of thin belts and boxy clutches, large cotton blazers appeared more youthful. Large constructed sunglasses in subdued matt colours added a balance between art, structure and form. From fluid to boxy, shapes and silhouettes remained classical to the Van Noten house, but with insertions of the Oriental, looks were worked to employ a more natural and casual approach. Yet, this naturalism did not remain boring or bleak, with sharper toned prints and bright silver embellishments upon black wrapped structures proposed a perfect composition.

Concise embellishments in hues of peach, cream and eau-de Nil were dusted upon slim trousers and sleeved tops. This along with oversized, double-breasted cream tuxedos with silk lapels tempted a sense of glamour which was wearable and captivating. Sheer chiffons were draped over the frame in pallid blues and were sharpened with black to provoke undertones of an evocative collection. With blushing tones of rose, azure, gold and pallid pastels in cerulean and peach splayed over silk, kimono-esque tops and dresses became more elaborate as the collection unfolded. Closing looks unveiled matt embellishments over beaded floral detailing, cold metallics where studded over skirts and a coat. With the highlights of neutral sequins from the floral patterns evoked a contemporary vibe.

A chic concoction of shape, form, pattern and diffused glamour all exemplified the easy essence of the collection. Van Noten defines the ability to entwine cultures, emotions and eras to which his collections remain a key example of how style can be interpreted.

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