Tuesday, 25 January 2011


Deep within the abyss of Burberry archives, Christopher Bailey’s collection connected modern day materials with a current condition, the extreme condition of global weather. A sixties campaign in which every image was photographed in a different weather condition sparked the inspiration of a coat for all seasons which remained Bailey’s most pressing focus for the collection.
Regal connections lingered throughout, manifesting a subtle suggestion of heritage to the contemporary man. Fur was woven and doeskin layered to entrust the epitome of luxury. However the real emphasis was the celebration of the coat. Imperishable they seemed to be and again, Bailey’s use of colour was incredibly astute. Grand buffalo-check in claret, royal blue and camel provided a magnified aesthetic with initially, large boxy-cuts. Spacious tweed pea-coats, duffels and single-breasted coats came in a vast range of lacquered yellow, muted green and bright russet which remained paramount to the opening section. A myriad of skinny trousers, pointed thick-soled boots and the occasional furred headgear all targeted a weightiness which still appeared comfortable. This compatibility remained concurrent undeniably through the robust use of fur. Large pea-coats provided a hearty naturalism through leather trimmed fur and modern tailoring. Fur collars were
heavily defined upon long double-breasted coats whilst sturdy crocodile bags penetrated the theme of robust luxury. As the show progressed, tailoring accelerated into a sharper form; cable knits became fluffed and feathery and bold cow-skin and various extremities of check were soon nourished by the limelight. Directional drama came in an erupting rainstorm on the runway which provided the ultimate connotation that the collection beckoned attention in a punctual dismissal of simply ‘seasonal’ coats.

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