Thursday, 24 February 2011


Antonio Berardi
His signature hard femininity resonated down the catwalk and through the minds of wanting eyes. Building austerity and intensity proved Berardi an undeniable talent. Similar to the mind frame of many designers throughout the fashion weeks, Berardi targeted superlative luxury for the richest around. However, the clothes themselves were demonstrated to flow from day to night, some looks with certain difficulty yet most remained a strong testament to this movement. Pearly white basics were folded as jackets accentuated large lapels and skimpy skirts lay raw in cubed beads. Some knitwear allowed for silver inserts with a cascading shape whilst ultimate luxury lay nestled within a giant white shearling coat with pristine cut trousers to match. Tailoring was robust in its masculinity with shadowy grey tones of tweed and a selection of furs, some looks encompassed the approach to daywear Berardi was desperate to encapsulate.

Eveningwear lay ridden in acid lame in tones of blazing red and green-gold, the better of which included sheer lace inserts. Although for me a distasteful material, the dresses themselves submerged the floor with a vibrant and decadent luminescent, molten splash. A textured suit in shadowy charcoal gave a grave richness to the collection, and as it unfolded the tailoring became stronger and cocktail dresses sharper. Lace fronted cocktail dresses were filed within fitted tailoring and geometric folded skirts. Grey-dustings of shearling with diagonal embellishments gave the absorption of luxury and daywear. Spliced bullion in geometric blueprints came to fruition again upon flesh-toned organza on cocktail dresses. Navy lace inserts with thick pleated skirts were affixed with largely collared coats with strips of the glossiest mink and fox. The lace continued to remain electric with a combination with a petrol lame oversized blazer as well as floor length dresses with crystallized sleeves. The collection remained punctuated with punctured felt and origami folds as jacket sleeves were laden with beads with crystals. Lasting creations attained a peppering of finely placed studs to mould the precise simplicity of the tailoring whilst breeding a contemporary, clean finish.

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