Christian Dior Couture.
John Galliano let couture blossom again with a Dior show staged in a perspex tent in the gardens of the Musée Rodin. From the background flourished monumental plastic structures of parrot tulips mirrored by the plethora of tropical flowers blooming outside and acted as a hypnotic and sedative backdrop to the astonishing dresses.
The show was clearly dominated by the beautiful aesthetic of flowers, the wonderful colours and pairings of colour explained this. Mellow, feathered mohair flowered into tulip-shaped skirts in rich purple and nip-waisted jackets also in mohair were collared in cushiony pastel powder-blue. Multi-layered skirts rippled down the frame in chiffon and tulle to form a variety of skirts which were ruffled, feathered and ruched in efflorescent cerulean, flaming scarlet with washed, blushing rose and ink-black with flourishing gold, azure and lilac flowers. More mohair was constructed in waisted jackets, statement coats and tulip-skirted dresses, some of which were accompanied with embellished metallic skirts or black feathery bodices. Layers of ink-bled silk dissipated from ultramarine to pristine white in folded, waisted dresses. This dissolved ink pattern was taken further with an opaque black dress, with finely cut silk liquefying between washed black, muted rose and hues flickering between tropical viridescent and misty lilac.
Ruffled and plucked floor-length and petaled bubble dresses were moulded into staggering creations which flowed around the body like live, tropical coral. The finale of ball-gown organza dresses with warped aqueous tones of floral yellow, ice-blue and mesmeric violet ovlerlay a dramatic black underskirt of extortionate amounts of organza. Ruffled bodices in watery candy-pink with bleached white were ruffled at the hips mirroring soft, layered petals of roses, which again burst into paradise with more vivid lilac organza as the skirt.
This mesmeric collection was emphasized further with models supporting undulating, concave beehives which were tipped with curling quiffs. Beneath cellophane headdresses (produced by Stephen Jones) in sheets of glowing orange, pearlescent pink, sparkling ice-blue, flashing teal and scintillating yellow lay bright, lightning flashes of contrasting colours in eye-shadow, with exaggerated eyebrows and deep, dark matt lips. Finely strappy healed shoes came in similar tones of colour which heightened the delicate detail of the romantic floral printed day dresses.
Galliano stated that part of his research involved studying the light change on various brightly petaled flowers. Which, only partly explains the magnificence of the intoxicating, soporific paradise which Galliano allows us to dream of.